Sciacca and amore

I left Marina Di Ragusa pretty early in the morning so I would try to beat the heat of the day as I had a few hundred kms to do. I was going via Piazza Almarina, home to a Roman Villa with mosaics from the 4th century BC, then onto Enna said to be geographically in the centre Sicily before heading to Sciacca (pronounced Sharka) where I would be staying for the next 3 nights.

I set off towards Piazza Armerina around 100kms away. Although I was in the Renault Panda, I wound down all the windows to let the breeze flow through my hair, put a CD on, Biagio Antonacci, an Italian singer similar to Cold Play and drove through the olive and citrus groves through to Ragusa then off the main highway 514, a left turn into 124 Grammichele and Caltagirone, a hill top city with shabby terraces that appeared from nowhere as I drove through the snakes of a roads into the rocky mountains. Some Italian motorcycle club guys followed me and I followed them for the 50km trip up hills and across plains with views as far as the Mediterranean. It was good to have company along the way. I stopped for a coffee at Grammichele and break from the burning 35degree sun. I took photos of the riders and talked with them for a while. They were on tour from Rome for 2 weeks and members of the Honda Gold Wing Club, though 2 were riding R1200 BMW’s. They were heading to Enna north of Piazza Armerina so they left before me.

As I drove through the many towns along the way I wondered where all these people from these huge villages worked or spent their time. Many were sitting on the steps of their terrace houses passing the time with friends or preparing their vegetables for lunch. They stare at each car as it passes. Simple lives where time seems to have stopped for the moment.

I continued on, getting a little lost, but that’s what touring is all about. Sidetracking and stopping for photo opportunities of the changing landscape. Piazza Armerina was a cool relief as I lunched with sliced meat, olives, mozzarella and champignons under the shade of lemon trees on the terrace of the Villa Romane di Casale, I had bought before I left Marina Di Ragusa. I wandered around the rooms of mosaics from 400BC in awe of the majestic art from so long ago.

Back on the road I continued across to Barrafranca, Pietraperzia before stopping for a cool lemoncello (lemon and vodka) at Caltanisetta. I still had about 150kms to go to get to Sciacca before 5pm so I stuck to the main highway from there. Nowhere near as exciting and interesting as the morning ride but I got there in time to check in to the seaside apartment I had organised a few days before. Hot and tired I swam in the sea before sleeping it off for a few hours.

The apartment, basic but clean and comfortable was one of the terraces along the promenade of the old port, a beautiful view from the front door. Pity it didn’t have a balcony but just a few steps across the road was the beach and plenty to see with the sardine fishing boats coming and going all day long. 100m away were the cafe/bars and restaurants so popular in the seaside towns.

My affitasi (rental) host was a man around 60years old. Spoke some English, but understood little of what I said. He was kind enough on the first night to take me to a supermarket, then up to view Sciacca from the Bytantine Church that stood 450m above the sea. He drove me around the port and the monument dedicated to the French from the war and most of the little streets that make up this old port town. He couldn’t do enough for me.....and I later find out why!

Next morning I am barely awake and my host Michael is knocking on my door, asking what do I need, is everything allright? He comes in and sits down at the table and I explain that a frying pan would be good and some dish liquid. Some salt and pepper would be a bonus! Then as I am in the kitchen he corners me, oo ooh! He is in love with me and dreamt about me all night.............Oh dear! I brush him off, fearing this could be a problem but make light heart of it and say its not right, I would prefer if he left me alone. Please don’t come in without asking etc. Oh I didn’t realise I had that effect on men, I was thinking, pity he wasn’t the good looking Italian man I met in Salemi!

Over the next couple of days he sort of stalked me as I was coming and going from my little apartment. He was pretty harmless and didn’t try anything again but said he was going to be very sad after I left on Saturday.

I spent most of my time in Sciacca relaxing, going for swims or just walking around the area. It was so hot and I had been on the road for almost 3 weeks so I wanted to enjoy the location. On my second day I left my excursion until the cool afternoon to go to Caltebellotta. Another interesting historic hilltop village.