I know its French but I am not sure what it is in Italian so that will do for the moment. Words cannot explain how beautiful the view from my hotel room balcony overlooking the Mediterranean. I am at the Hotel Bacco in Furore, on the Amalfi Coast, halfway between Positano and Amalfi. At 350euros for 5 days it was one of the cheapest I could find on the internet along this coast that may have a view or glimpse at least of the sea in the distance. I wasn’t expecting much, though the internet photos showed some great shots. Mine was the cheapest single room possible and I expected a garden view at that price, but when Domenico led me up the to the second floor, opened the shutters and doors onto the balcony it took my breath away. Here I am perched on the side of a steep mountain, in a picturesque village with a sheer 100m drop to the village and the sea.
A million dollar view, If I lay on my bed and look straight out all I can see is the Mediterranean with multi million dollar yachts, private charters and ferries sailing by. I cant wait for the sunset......it should be spectacular.
I was so hot and tired, restless from another 5 hours of driving through tunnels, highways and snaking roads through the mountains. I haven’t stopped for any tourist locations since I left Sicily, I guess I am either “temple and ruin”-ed out for the moment and probably a little disappointed with Southern Italy after the beautiful, interesting Sicily. As I drive I play Andrea Borchelli up loud on the car CD, which echoes through the tunnels so perfectly acoustic.......its brilliant.
The landscape is beautiful, such a change from Sicily with its fertile soil, green mountains and valleys, lush rainforests I was not expecting as I drove through to the coast yesterday. I have crisscrossed the laces of Italy’s boot, up the southern coast. Going from coast to A3 autostrade, out of necessity than preference. I tried to stick to the coast road as much as possible but time and very basic roads at times forced me to “highway it” for 80+kms yesterday. I went off, according to my basic map to go through the mountains but when I got to a small village and the signs ran out, as usual, I asked a local which way was the road to the coast......Gasp! they were shocked that I would want to go that way, “the road was too narrow”, “it takes too long”, “it maybe fallen away in parts””You must go on the autostrada....Mama Mia!”. No matter how hard I tried, stopping 3 different people along the way, I just couldn’t convince any of them to let me go that way. Finally one man I asked from the electrical company, insisted on me following him to the right way, he was on his way home to the very town I needed to go through. Little did I know it was at least 30kms away. So I followed then he waved me goodbye when he directed me to turn right here for the coast. Grazie........they are so friendly and helpful in Italy.
The road trip through the mountains was beautiful, so similar to the Dandenong Ranges around Melbourne, but steeper, much steeper, swap the gums for the tall pines and oaks I think they are. The terracotta roofed villas dotted between the valleys and the Basilica’s with their bell towers in each small village on the way, beware of snow signs, its a blanket of snow in the winter. It was the first rain I had seen since I got to Italy, a storm was brewing and the lightening strikes were incredible in the distance.
I stopped at a place called Marina di Maratea, it was beautiful. I have no idea when I am driving, using my basic map as a guide, I just venture off the main road and explore any little village that looks sort of interesting as I drive through. Generally those with a port are from the old settlements and its those I choose to stop at. Marina di Maratea was one of those ports, a steep narrow winding road down to the port itself with multi million dollar cruisers you see all the movie stars on, parked in the Marina. A semi circle village and its pastel coloured terraced villas hanging precariously off the mountainside, numerous cafes and restaurants with their potted bougainvilleas’ and striped awnings circling the piazzas. Idyllic location, but no hotels or B&B’s in the village. The smiling waitress with good English informs me of one just up the mountain that does have vacancies for the night. She had just checked for two other guys a few minutes before. B&B Liano, set amongst beautiful gardens with a refreshing swimming pool and another beautiful view of the Mediterranean was perfect at 50euros a night. I was hot, tired and in great need of a swim and shower after my 300km trip from Coccorino the night before. I had a fungi pasta and lemoncello aperitif before hunting for the B&B.
Coccorino was a stopover village with not a lot to offer apart from the rocky seaside I had a chance to visit for a short time with the hotel owner. Going beyond his call of duty he had ridden his motorbike in front of me to direct me to a “special place” he knew. We were to swim in this multi coloured private rocky beach, but in for just a second and stung by the tiny medusa’s (small purple jellyfish” I was out of the water again quick smart. It was a beautiful spot, a circular pool of quartz rocks, pity about the jellyfish so I returned to the comfort of the hotel pool. Camello was a great host, bringing me complimentary wine and fruits from his orange and lemon tree. I had a relaxed night, no dinner, just the Arrancina rice ball I had purchased on the ferry, it was enough.
So here I am day 3 of my Italian Road trip, the Amalfi Coast....stunning. I am settled here for 5 days and will make use of the local bus to Amalfi and ferry to the Isle of Capri. I will head to Pompeii and Mt Vesuvius one of the days for my bit of historical culture but generally indulge in the coastal lifestyle. So far on my trip here I was kind of lost, so I stopped for milk and a cafe freddo (iced coffee) at the Furore Della Mia bar. So friendly was the proprietor Antony, well spoken in English, very popular it seems as other people dropped in while I was there, introducing themselves to me as they entered the bar. I know I am going to like it here already. Its slightly off the beaten track for “motto tourismo” many tourists, so they are still warm and welcoming. I will get to know it here a lot more over the next five days.
Ooooh 6 canon shots blast out 200m below to the sea, disturbing the cicadas’ and the local dogs begin howling, then the church bells tolls 6pm, so its aperitif time........gotta love it ........... life on the Amalfi.........bellisimo!
Till soon,
Ciao xxMarilyn
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